Buenos Aires Adventure
Say ‘Hello, Buenos Aires!’ and explore the food, fashion, architecture, and beyond in Argentina’s capital city.
Since its founding in the 16th century, Argentina’s capital of Buenos Aires has attracted global attention. First, by conquistadors who initially established this area as a key trading port on South America’s southeastern coast. Then, by the militaries of Spain and Britain, which fought to gain a strategic foothold in the Río de la Plata estuary and access to the region’s plentiful resources in the early 1800s. Eventually, a melting pot of immigrants made up of laborers, bohemians, and wealthy elites settled here by the turn of the 20th century, helping develop Buenos Aires into the culturally diverse, cosmopolitan city it is today. Unlike other traditional urban areas in South America, Argentina looked to France and Italy for inspiration when designing Buenos Aires. The result is a city filled with statuesque buildings and sprawling boulevards that offers old-school European elegance, while still remaining true to a proud and vibrant Latin American heritage.
Begin your Buenos Aires journey in La Recoleta, a trendy barrio (district) known for Parisian-style architecture, opulent former palaces, and grand monuments. This neighborhood may have been named for a Franciscan Order that was established here in the 18th century, but today’s Recoleta is anything but monastic. Explore Avenida Alvear, an upscale, seven-block thoroughfare filled with posh boutiques and international designer brands, such as Salvatore Ferragamo. Then enjoy English afternoon tea and pastries served by white-gloved waiters beneath the arched glass ceilings at L’Orangerie. Stay for a glass of wine in the evening — or spend the night entirely; L’Orangerie is located in the Alvear Palace Hotel, a stylish throwback to the Belle Époque, the “beautiful era” when Buenos Aires first became known as “the Paris of South America.”
For a more somber look back, make a pilgrimage to one of Buenos Aires’ most famous attractions: the labyrinthine Recoleta Cemetery, with marble mausoleums as large as cottages and where the walkways resemble miniature streets creating a city unto itself. This eerily beautiful landmark is the final resting place of Nobel Prize winners, military leaders, and politicians, including former First Lady of Argentina Eva Perón, the national icon whose life inspired Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical, Evita.
Additional majestic sculptures await nearby, such as Émile Peynot’s bronze bas-relief Monument of France to Argentina (in honor of the 1910 Argentina Centennial) in the Plaza Francia public square, and Floralis Genérica, a 65-foot tall, 18-ton stainless steel flower — with petals that open each morning at 8 a.m. and close at midnight — in the Plaza de las Naciones Unidas. More art can be found at the contemporary gallery and collaborative exhibition space Centro Cultural Recoleta and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts), including seminal works by Argentinian masters Antonio Berni and Quinquela Martin, among others.
If Recoleta represents the old Buenos Aires, then Puerto Madero definitely represents the new. Thirty years ago, this neighboring area was a decaying former shipping port filled with empty warehouses and rats. Today, it’s gleaming waterfront community filled with modern architectural landmarks, such as César Pelli’s shiny YPF Tower and Santiago Calatrava’s Puente de la Mujer (“Women’s Bridge”), a footbridge whose sleek design is intended to represent a couple dancing the tango. Puerto Madero is a neighborhood that honors Argentine’s women; the streets are named for female leaders, such as Aimé Painé, a Mapuche singer who fought for indigenous rights; disappeared activist Azucena Villaflor; politician and Argentina National Feminist Union co-founder Alicia Moreau de Justo; and humourist Niní Marshall.
Enjoy a casual bike ride or picnic in the 865-acre Costanera Sur, Buenos Aires’ biggest ecological reserve, located in Puerto Madero. Or simply soak in views of the impressive green space from five-star hotels nearby — such as the Hilton Buenos Aires, known for its striking nine-story glass atrium featured in movies like Nine Queens; or the Faena Hotel, a surreal and opulent retreat built inside a converted former wheat mill (think red velvet curtains over red brick walls), a nod to Puerto Madera’s industrial past.
If you’ve worked up an appetite with all this sightseeing, don’t fret: some of Buenos Aires’ best restaurants are in nearby Palermo, a neighborhood celebrated for its dining and nightlife scene. Beef has been a major part of Argentina’s cultural identity ever since the first cattle were brought by the Spanish more than 500 years ago. Get a taste of history at Don Julio, considered possibly the best parrilla (steakhouse) in the country, serving free-range, grass-fed beef that arrives straight from local ranchers. Owner Pablo Rivero wants “only the pure taste of beef,” so Don Julio’s popular strip steaks and tenderloins are prepped with nothing but a bit of salt (really, that’s all it takes).
For a slightly more modern take, head to La Carnicería (“butcher shop” in Spanish), a mixed grill that rounds out their also-excellent steaks and chops with fresh takes on sides, such as sweetbreads that are actually sweetened with honey and black garlic; grilled provoleta cheese paired with, well, pear; and a cabbage “steak” that can actually hold its own. Those seeking a different dining experience are likely to find it at eccentric Julia Restaurante, where the menu may change seasonally, but the food is always top-tier. Where else might you find cured trout served with raspberry vinaigrette, cumin sour cream, and cranberry pickles — or a grilled melon curry prepared with fresh mint, basil, shiso and Tajín? (There are only 22 seats at Julia, so book yours in advance.)
Finish the evening with cocktails at Victoria Brown Bar, an industrial Alice in Wonderland-esque speakeasy where the bartenders are pouring innovative creations, such as That Bengali Sailor, made with bourbon, cognac, coconut, Cynar, banana and lime. Or visit the Verne Cocktail Club, another literary-themed hotspot, this one inspired by the sci-fi writings of Jules Verne. Sit back on the leather chesterfield, admire the Turkish rugs, and imbibe in a gin drink mixed with blueberry, coriander, beet shrub, and citrus perfume; or an old (cream) fashioned, featuring bourbon, cherry honey, orange cordial, angostura bitters — and local vanilla ice cream. Sure, it’s a decadent way to round out your evening. But in Buenos Aires, extravagance is what the journey is all about.